This story was written to commemorate Vientiane’s 450th anniversary
The majestic That Luang Stupa in Vientiane is the national symbol of Laos.
That Luang Stupa was originally built during the ancient Khmer civilisation, when Vientiane was inhabited by people known as the ‘Cham’. Researchers believe the structure was originally a four-sided stone obelisk. According to the book That Luang Viengchanh, recompiled by Kavim Kiangkhamxonny in 1999, the site was built as a place for people to worship and pray to idols. The structure was renovated by King Sayasetthathirath in the 16th century when the original site was covered with a bigger stupa. From then on the monument took the name That Luang, or Grand Stupa. The Cham period was the second wave of Buddhism in Laos. Under the patronage of Emperor Ashokka of India, the venerable monks Sona and Outala and five scholars brought a piece of what believers understand to be pieces of the pelvic bone of Lord Buddha to Vientiane in 218 BCE, where it was kept at Phu Luang hill. The ruler of Vientiane at that time, Lord Chanthabouly Phasitthisack, built a stupa over the obelisk in 236 BCE. The sacred site was then named Pha Chedi Lokachulamany. According to the legend of That Phanom Stupa, also known as ‘Tamnan Oulangkatat’, Emperor Ashokka authorised the relics to be placed inside That Luang Stupa in Vientiane. The same legend claims the remains of Lord Buddha were distributed to all corners of the globe where there were Buddhist followers and his ashes were put inside 84,000 stupas. This number corresponds to the 84,000 points raised for believers to study in the tripitaka (Buddhist scriptures). In its early form, That Luang was not as high as it is now, but after Lord Buddha’s ashes were placed at the site and a new stupa was built around the original obelisk, the monument took on its current shape and grew in importance as a place of worship for Lao Buddhists. According to legend, supported by physical evidence found from the reign of King Jayavoraman VII sometime between the 9th and 14th centuries, it is apparent the original obelisk was indeed an ancient Cham construction. Many artifacts have being discovered at the site including a statue of Jayavoraman VII dated from between AD 1181 and 1219, which is presently located at the northern end of the inner cloister of the stupa. The story of That Luang has become clear only since the beginning of the 16th century, known among historians as the middle of the ancient Lao period. King Sayasetthathirath ordered construction of the current stupa in AD 1566, six years after designating Vientiane as the capital of Laos. Previously, the capital was situated in what is now Luang Prabang (then known as Xiengthong). King Sayasetthathirath built the grand stupa so the new capital would have an equally splendid place of worship similar to the Grand Stupa in Chiang Mai, which was under the king’s rule as part of the Lane Na kingdom. The king wanted to project himself as a patron of Buddhism and to achieve enlightment like the Lord Buddha, but before doing so he needed to make merit across all aspects of his life. He also wanted a site to hold an annual festival that would provide an occasion for testing the loyalty of chief administrators from all corners of the Lane Xang kingdom. This festival would also pay homage to the gods and to King Fa Ngum, who is attributed with bringing the third wave of Buddhism to Laos. Through this annual event, the king wanted the people of the Lane Xang kingdom to come together to make merit and observe religious practices, celebrate together and consolidate solidarity, strengthening the kingdom to ensure it remained intact. Because King Sayasetthathirath wanted to be a Bhothiyana, an enlightened one, he came up with the idea of surrounding the main stupa with 30 smaller satellites of equal size known as Palami (fulfillment of goodness) stupas. At the base of each satellite stupa, a flattened plate of gold was inscribed with words depicting ariyasat (the four noble truths - the essence of Lord Buddha’s teachings). These plates, also containing information on the date of the renovation of the stupa to its current size, can still be seen today inside the cloister at the eastern entrance of That Luang. The wording on the fourth line of the plates reads: “This stupa contains the ashes of Lord Buddha and was built by King Sayasetthathirat. May it last for more than 5,000 years.” The revered sacred place has been worn out over time and damaged by wars perpetrated by foreign imperialists. Whenever the country was invaded, religious and sacred places of worship such as That Luang were among the first targets for looting and indiscriminate destruction.
that Luang Stupa photographed in 1910.
Workers repair That Luang in 1911.
Tags: That Luang Spiritual Centre Of The Lao People
